Go back
Free Tutors?

Free Tutors?

Only Chess

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by FabianFnas
There are people with good skills in chess, and there are people with good teaching skills.
But there are few people with good skills in chess *and* with good teaching skills.
I rather have a mediocre chess player with a high skill of teaching coaching me.
Unfortunately it's difficult to know whether a teacher is right for you before you start. I was chatting to the mother of an aspiring chess champion the other day and she started complaining that the coach at his school was really boring and her son didn't learn anything from him. When she told me his name I was shocked to realise she was talking about one of the best known coaches in Britain, a very strong player and a full time chess teacher and coach with countless books and DVDs to his name. Obviously he just didn't "click" with this particular child! (I know plenty of children who have improved tremendously through his coaching).

I would be wary of using a coach or tutor who isn't at least of good club standard (say, 120 ECF, perhaps 1800 FIDE / USCF / CFC), as weak players are apt to teach their students stuff which is just plain wrong! I shudder to think how many promising chess careers have been blighted forever after 30 minutes with GreenPawn.

1 edit
Vote Up
Vote Down

Chess is simple - sac things.

That guy who said you learn more from a cold box than a living GM
is a nut job.

Chess teacher's first task is to put overt love of the game and show
chess is fun.

Vote Up
Vote Down

If people leave pieces, i.e. bishops etc., unprotected, think twice before taking them!

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by acb123
If people leave pieces, i.e. bishops etc., unprotected, think twice before taking them!
Unless it's me. 😛

I could do with some tuition one day.

Or a smack.

One of the two.

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by acb123
If people leave pieces, i.e. bishops etc., unprotected, think twice before taking them!
Yes, in this situation, think twice before taking the piece. But, if after thinking twice, it still looks like a blunder by your opponent, then you should take the piece. If it really was a blunder, then you have the piece. And if it was a trap, then this is an opportunity to learn about the trap. Think of it as the price you pay for knowledge. 🙂

3 edits

My tips for learning:

Think of learning chess as being like learning a language in terms of time commitment for improvement and also the importance of grasping the basics first before moving on. You would not wish to start to learn Spanish with an advanced book...the same with chess.

A good coach over the board will be ideal as will joining a local chess club and playing in some competitions. You may also have your own preferences for study - books over computer programmes or the other way around etc.


I agree with Fat Lady that Chesskids.com is a good general website...comprehensible and clear.

If you haven't already got to grips with notation (also called algebraic chess notation) so you can follow a chess game by reading - 1.e4...e5, 2Nf3...Nc6 etc. then now is the time. It will give you access to so many study tools. Wiki is a reasonable source for this and much other chess info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algebraic_chess_notation

I divide study up into three areas...how much time to spend on each is the subject of many arguments and personal taste comes into it too...this is your hobby after all.

Openings

Think about control of the centre (those four squares in the middle) and getting your pieces (knights and bishops) active.

Control or occupy the centre with a pawn or two. Moving the e or d pawn two squares forward is considered by many to be a best first move. It occupies the centre and makes way for a bishop to get into the fight.

Some say opening with 1.e4 is more dynamic than starting with 1.d4 but either first move can lead to dynamic or dull games depending on the players. Although I now play 1.d4 to start my games I recommend to start by learning about play proceeding from 1.e4... don't ask me why!

Get your pieces (knights and bishops) out onto good squares fast think of it as a race to get your troops onto the battle field. It takes a while to learn what is meant by a good square e.g. f3 is a good square for your kings knight because it controls the centre.

Knights before bishops - because you know the best square for your knight (f3)...the best square for a bishop is likely to depend more on what your opponent does.

Avoid making lots of pawn moves early on especially if you could be developing pieces.

Avoid moving a piece (or a pawn) more than once in the early stages (unless there is a really good reason)

Castle early. This gets your king safely tucked away and activates your rook.

Centralise your rooks.


The rules are really guides and are often ignored or can't quite be followed because your opponent is trying to get there first - it is a battle after all - but always try to ignore a rule for a good reason.

Good Book: "Discovering Chess Openings" by John Emms (explains the basics and the reasons behind them)
Good Website: http://www.chessgames.com/

Have a play around on this database too: http://www.shredderchess.com/online-chess/online-databases/opening-database.html

...by the rules of this site you are allowed to follow the moves from a database or opening book (also called book lines) to assist you in the game. Many people use this as a learning tool. If you get into using a databas then always try to think of your own move before seeing the database suggestion. And try to work out for yourself just why the database move is good.

After a while you may well choose a system or two for deeper study which is a good thing but do avoid getting too bogged down with theory (memory of lines) in the early stages of your training. Be flexible and try out some different systems. There is a balance to found here between rigidly studying one type of opening and constantly trying out different systems - neither of these extremes are advisable.

After time you will learn how you like to play - attacking, positional, popular, unusual, balanced, unbalanced etc. and you might come to chose a preferred opening based on this knowledge.

Tactics and Strategy

Always look out for unprotected pieces your own and your opponents...who was it said L.P.D.O. (Loose pieces drop off)?

I'd suggest getting to grips with tactics to start with - pins, forks, skewers etc. Tactics are the short term maneuvers that either win material or gain some other advantage such as getting a piece onto a good square. Tactics puzzles from books or websites are a great way to train.



Strategy is about a longer term plan to get to check mate. Strategies can evolve and change as the game progresses. Tactics serve the strategy - but if you are really good at tactics and win lots of material then winning is going to be easier anyway.

Book: "Winning Chess Tactics" by Yasser Seirawan (all his books are good and teach what they say on the cover)

A puzzle book will be good too - but have a look at them first to make sure they are going to be within your grasp.
Websites: http://www.chesstactics.org/ (Has plain language explanations.)
http://chess.emrald.net/ (superb for practice after you've learned some basics)

Endings

First up is to master the basic mates such as King and two rooks verses king, King and Rook verses King and King and Queen verses King.

Then look at some common checkmating patterns such as, back rank mate, smothered mate. Mate in one and mate in two puzzle are a good starting point.

Books:
"Silman's Complete Endgame Course: From Beginner to Master" by Jeremy Silman (he has a gratingly self aggrandising and painfully condescending writing style at times - but the content is good)
"Winning Chess Tactics" by Yasser Seirawan

Wesite: http://www.chessvideos.tv/ and follow the link to endgame study


As for computer programmes I've used the well known Fritz and and also Chessmaster. Both are good. At first I found Chessmaster more accessible and easier to use because I found the beginner tools such as selecting an easy opponent and tutorials were easy to set up and access than Fritz which took me longer to get to grips with.... but now I prefer Fritz.

And finally - play away - both on here and some real time chess on other sites if you can.

Vote Up
Vote Down

Thanks so much everyone.
I'm going to try to get in touch with some of you...

Vote Up
Vote Down

Chess learning is best done with a chess player who has actual chess teaching experience and the chess knowledge required.Chess computer and similar resources are best studied by players who have decided that most or all of their opponents will be similar computers and programs etc.To play technically accurate games such'micro brain'have proved to be extremely useful in specific circumstances ,however in order to play as a good human would play against other human players,it is necessary to experience human play, and human tuition if this is possible . If human tuition is not possible then some of the many chess tuition books and other learning tools[DVDs etc]are an acceptable alternative resource. not all good or better than good chessplayers make good chess teachers and vice versa as has been mentioned already,however not all books and DVDs make the best teaching tooks either. The level of existing chess knowledge should be used to correctly determine the learning tools which may be considered the most suitable for each player,and beginner or near beginner chess player would learn little of any use to them from the chess games of master players.Good beginner books and DVD sets would be usually considered a most sensible way to begin!--😉

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by RECUVIC
Chess learning is best done with a chess player who has actual chess teaching experience and the chess knowledge required.Chess computer and similar resources are best studied by players who have decided that most or all of their opponents will be similar computers and programs etc.To play technically accurate games such'micro brain'have proved to be extreme ...[text shortened]... Good beginner books and DVD sets would be usually considered a most sensible way to begin!--😉
hi GM recuvic, if you ever need a free tutor for learning correct chess notation, I'll be available any time.

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by diskamyl
hi GM recuvic, if you ever need a free tutor for learning correct chess notation, I'll be available any time.
I think you're being a trifle unfair. I'm sure there are dozens of Grandmasters in the world who haven't yet learned algebraic notation...

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by Fat Lady
I think you're being a trifle unfair. I'm sure there are dozens of Grandmasters in the world who haven't yet learned algebraic notation...
yes Fat chick, its true, the King of Chess, Bobby Fischer never learned algebraic notation his entire life, i am learning old style notation in his honour!

1 edit
Vote Up
Vote Down

You now have to un-learn it. It's illegal.

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by robbie carrobie
yes Fat chick, its true, the King of Chess, Bobby Fischer never learned algebraic notation his entire life, i am learning old style notation in his honour!
Are you kidding me? If Fischer never learnt algebraic notation then how do you explain the publication of "My 61 Memorable Scams" just before he died:
http://my61memorablegames.wordpress.com/

quote: "I've wanted to release an official version of my book updated in algebraic notation".

Next you'll be trying to tell me that this is just a vanity press book printed by the notorious charlatan and scam artist Ed Trice from Philadelphia and had no input from Fischer whatsoever.

Vote Up
Vote Down

Originally posted by robbie carrobie
yes Fat chick, its true, the King of Chess, Bobby Fischer never learned algebraic notation his entire life, i am learning old style notation in his honour!
Oh, but you must be in error, Mr. Robbie! Fischer must have learned algebraic notation! How else would he have been able to lambaste the 1995 Batsford edition of his My 60 Memorable Games? 😉

Vote Up
Vote Down

He recorded his games up to '72 in descriptive - no idea about
the later match with Spassky.

Anybody know what notation King Bobby used in the second match?