Originally posted by CEE DOGHere you go ; Game 4955920
Can people review this game and provide feedback. I am black.
My apologies if I didn't insert the game link properly. I'm not sure if I did. http://www.redhotpawn.com/core/playchess.php?gameid=4955920
Thank you
Originally posted by CEE DOGNo serious blunders in opening and middlegame but few minor that cost you some pawns and a inferior endgame... for example moves like 14... Qb6, you've lost a pawn without obvious reason. Always check twice the move you intended so you can avoid that material blunders... Analyze board should help you with that. Being two pawns down in the middle of game can be one thing but quite another when you play king and pawn endgames. Eventually, when you trade everything your opponent suddenly has to pawns and you have none which is more than enough to win... Only my few thoughts...
Thank you!
Originally posted by CEE DOG1...e5 looks like a good way to head for a loss from move #1
Can people review this game and provide feedback. I am black.
My apologies if I didn't insert the game link properly. I'm not sure if I did. http://www.redhotpawn.com/core/playchess.php?gameid=4955920
Thank you
3...Qe7 blocks both your knight and bishop, ie. not good. furthermore, bringing your queen out early will likely get it kicked around the board, losing a precious development move every single time. it's like you were in a fist fight, and let the opponent hit you several times for free.
5...c6 what did this accomplish? absolutely nothing. nothing developed, another hit in the face.
6...Qxe5, which is another direct consequence of 1...e5, now observe the queen getting kicked:
7.f5 BAM! another hit in the face, another tempo down in development.
12...d5 you never EVER let your opponent create a passed pawn, especially a protected one.
13...Ne4 that knight is dead on arrival. white should just take it, and then win the pawn afterwards. a lost pawn without compensation = a lost game. you may still win, but probably only if your opponent blunders. (of course things are not as clear-cut on our level, but that's still a huge step towards a loss)
14...Qb6 drops a pawn after the exchange. and leaves c6 alone in the world combined with Bxe4 dxe4.
17...f6 -the only thing keeping white pawn from advancing is f-pawn sitting on f7. ...f6 lets white pawn break free after the exchange, which will create huge problems for you. maybe even force you to sac a piece to stop it. so never let it go to that.
21...Rd8 loses material. you had a chance to win two bishops for a rook, AND get rid of that dangerous e-passer.
your weaknesses are not knowing (or ignoring) basic opening principles, and bad tactics. both are easily helped, so google up basic opening principles & start solving tactical problems daily.
read about tactical motifs here if you haven't already:
http://www.chesstactics.org/
and train them here:
http://chess.emrald.net/
Originally posted by CEE DOGSo you'll be voting Obama then?
I am black.
Thank you
No, really, then.
1. e5 Dubious sacrifice.
2. Qe7 See? Forced to hinder your own development.
The queen trade also contrived to lose you a pawn.
Don't move the queen so much in the opening, crucial.
Originally posted by wormwood21.Bb5?? That's some bad move. I wonder why any 1700+ players don't make any moves like that in my games.
1...e5 looks like a good way to head for a loss from move #1
3...Qe7 blocks both your knight and bishop, ie. not good. furthermore, bringing your queen out early will likely get it kicked around the board, losing a precious development move every single time. it's like you were in a fist fight, and let the opponent hit you several times for ...[text shortened]... n't already:
http://www.chesstactics.org/
and train them here:
http://chess.emrald.net/
Sam, I know you're absolutely right! I have a real problem with resigning. I was going to but I just couldn't get myself to press the button. As pathetic as it was I just couldn't give up. Those last pathetic moves all happened in a matter of 5 minutes. We were both moving about 20 seconds apart to finish it off... Still pathetic on my part though...
🙄
A note about your opening...
nothing wrong with your Qe7 move..that's how you play that opening..and it's 100% fine there blocking your bishop on f8..it's a really tricky opening (which does give white a plus if they know what to do..but hey, this is the website that people promote the grob and the borg so have at it)...when white foolishly gave back the pawn with Nc3 followed by e4, I think it gave you a chance to equalize..instead of c6 which doesn't match your existing strategy, you should have played Nf6..so if white goes NxN QxN, and white played f4, black can play Qa5 and have a decent game, similar to a center counter opening. already you would be wanting to play Bb4 and d5 with an enjoyable position.
Hi. You asked for assistance, I had a spare hour to kill.
Some of the advice you were given is a bit dubious.
I also wanted to see what the layout would look like.
(I needed a few edit to get it right - I could not get the diagram in)
AttilaTheHorn v CEE DOG
1.d4 e5
The Englund Gambit. It is basically a trap. Chris Donkin, Boston,
has caught three opponents with it in serious games.
However should your opponent fail to fall into the trap then you are
in trouble because of your lack of development.
2.dxe5 Nc6 3.Nf3 Qe7 4.Nc3!
Damn! He does not fall for the trap.
4.Bf4 Qb4+ 5.Bd2 Qxb2 6.Bc3 Bb4 7.Qd2 Bxc3 8.Qxc3 Qc1 mate.
We were treated to this, hopefully, tongue in cheek remark.
“...when white foolishly gave back the pawn with Nc3…...”
4.Nc3 is a good move, it gives back the extra pawn but develops a piece.
Black is wasting time taking back the pawn. This is where Black’s troubles
stem from. He is frittering away precious opening tempo.
Look at this game.
Auger – Sormany Chicoutimi, 1978
1.d4 e5 2.dxe5 Nc6 3.Nf3 Qe7 4.Nc3 Nxe5 5.e4 Nf6 6.Bg5 c6 7.Qd4 Nxf3+ 8.gxf3 d5
9.0–0–0 Qe6 10.exd5 Nxd5 11.Nxd5 Qxd5 12.Qe5+ Be6 13.Rxd5 cxd5 14.Bb5 mate
Don’t argue with me about 4.Nc3 in this position. Argue with Korchnoi, he played
4.Nc3 in the same position against Koning in 1978.
4...Nxe5 5.e4 c6
Played to stop a Knight from coming to d5. This waster would had
to be played sooner or later. At least you spotted the threat of Nd5.
Someone suggested 5…Nf6 and condemned 6…c6 but after 7. Bg5 c6 is forced.
6.Nxe5?!
This move appears to have it fans. It is simply the wrong move.
We are still at the developing stage of the game. If you can develop with
a threat - do it. 6.Bf4 was the move. Someone else seemed to also like 6.Nxe5
and the coming f4. It’s legal but the temporary gain of a tempo puts the
Queen’s Bishop in the shade. A short term gain - a long term problem.
White has swapped a developed piece for a piece that has already
moved twice and will no doubt have to move again.
AttilaTheHorn, tonight the ghost of Morphy is going to come into
your house and pee in your slippers.
6...Qxe5 7.f4?
Rowson mentions the trigger happy f-pawn players in Chess for Zebras.
We should listen to good players and White should have listened to his
Bishop before playing f4. White has gained one move but blunted his QB.
This will take several moves to put right.
7…Qc7 8.Be3 Bb4?
Bad because of the coming shot. 6...d6 had to played.
6...d6 9.Qd2 Nf6 10 0–0–0 Be7. That pawn on f4 actually hinders White.
Your opponent has the advantage in SPACE. One thing you must avoid when
playing v SPACE is placing you pieces on unprotected squares.
The root of most non-mating combinations can be traced to an unprotected piece.
9.Qd4! Bxc3+ 10.Qxc3 Nf6 11.Bd3
This is OK but the e-pawn was being held by tactics. Nxe4 then Qxg7.
11.0–0–0 (a move I would have had on move 8 without the 6.Nxe5 and f4 plan.
I would have been fully developed by now creating some serious threats.).
After 11.0–0–0 0–0 12.e5 Ng4 (12...Nd5 13.Rxd5!) 13.Bc5 Re8 14.h3 Nh6
15.Bd6 White is coasting . This variation highlights how serious a mistake 8…Bb4 was.
11...0–0 12.0–0 d5
This is plausible but there was better. Someone gave a note about not
allowing a passed pawn . Good advice but 13 e5 is not a passed pawn.
Attacking the e-pawn with 12...Re8 was the move.
Note the x-ray attack on the loose Bishop at e3.Yet another drawback of f4.
12…Re8 13.e5 Nd5 14.Qd4 d6 15.Bf2 dxe5 16.fxe5 Be6 17.Qh4 h6 White
is still on top thanks to the space and time you gave him with your dodgy opening.
But you are still fighting. Make him work for his win.
13.e5 Ne4 14.Qd4?
Better was 14.Bxe4 dxe4 15.f5 Get that thing off f4 so the Bishop can breathe.
14...Qb6??
This is shocking. Try to rid yourself of such bad play. A terrible move.
What were you thinking about? You have lost a pawn for nothing.
So one ? for that howler and one ? for not playing 14...Bf5
And you know what? - if anything I prefer Black that pawn on f4
has crippled the Bishop. You are back in the game after 14…Bf5.
How did this happen? It can be traced to the marvelous one tempo gain 7.f4
and 14.Qd4. You are beating yourself. Go back and add another ? to 14…Qb6.
15.Qxb6 axb6 16.Bxb6 Bf5 17.Rfd1 f6 18.a3 fxe5 19.fxe5
Now he has a passed pawn. It is infact the old much maligned f-pawn.
At last it has something to say but it took some slack Black moves to wake it up.
19…Rae8 20.Bd4 c5 21.Bb5? Rd8?
White’s 21.Bb5? was a baddie and you let him get away with it .
21...cxd4 22.Bxe8 Rxe8 23.Rxd4 Rxe5 the game is right back in the pot.
22.Be3 d4 23.Bf4 Kh8 24.Bd3 h6 25.Re1 g5 26.Bxe4?
26.e6 was a very good move here. A winner. You can almost see the two Rooks
jumping in fear. It would have been funny to see the sad f-pawn win the game.
26.e6 gxf4 e7 wins very easily.
26...gxf4 27.Bxf5 Rxf5 28.e6 Re8 29.Re4 f3
The last throw.
30.Rf1 Kg7 31.Rxf3 Rxf3 32.gxf3 Kf6 33.e7 Rxe7 34.Rxe7 Kxe7
35.Kf2 Ke6 36.Kg3 Kf5 37.b3 b6 38.f4 h5 39.Kf3 h4 40.b4 c4 41.a4 d3
41...c3 Was a try. He may have missed the idea and carried on with his own
idea of creating a passed a-pawn. 42.a5 bxa5 43.bxa5 d3 and Black wins.
It’s the kind of thing that happens in the 11th hour of a game, especially if one
player has been on top for so long., they switch off because they have not seen
a threat for ages. (apart from the TRAP you did not create one threat in this game).
42.cxd3 c3 43.Ke3 Kg4 44.d4 Kh3 45.d5 Kxh2 46.d6 It's over 1–0
Recap:
I am the last person on the planet to tell you stop playing opening traps.
I earned my living playing opening traps. But traps that had a little bite left
in the position should my opponent spot them, which they usually did.
The Englund traps fails because of the tempo wasting Qe7 and against a good player
you will not get out of this opening alive, or have a wretched cramped middle game.
Like all Black traps you can set the Englund in reverse. This is from a Scandinavian.
1.e4 d5 2.d4 dxe4 3.Nc3 Nf6 4.Qe2 Bf5 5.Qb5+ Bd7 6.Qxb7 Bc6 7.Bb5 Qd7
8.Bxc6 Qxc6 9.Qc8 mate.
Now what do you do?
Go to:http://www.gambitchess.com/semi/db6.htm
On this site you can download. Chess Books in PGN.
You do not get the whole book, just the games the book uses.
Chess moves are not copyright, words are.
Download Du Mont’s 200 Miniatures. It is full of tricks and traps that have
actually caught other players. There are light notes to the games so you don’t
need the words. Play over the games and soon you will learn the value of tempo,
space and tactics.
Whilst absorbing that you will also build up a bank of opening traps .
Some you will see work, in other games you will see the refutation.
The games are all entertaining so you won’t get bored.
Also pickup ‘The Golden Treasury of Chess Games’ by Wellmuth.
This book has no notes in it at all. Just the blind score of about 500 fabulous
chess games. The idea being you play over the games and if there is anything you
cannot understand then you figure it out for yourself.
This is really a good book. Very popular in it’s day.
Go to Edward Winter’s site and learn about the history of this book.
I would jiggle the order of this book, if you can, into shortest games first.
That way again you will see how elementary opening errors are punished
and pick up more tricks.
As you progress the games get longer and middle game tactics and plans
start appearing. Now you will learn how a badly placed piece (or f-pawn) in the
opening can have a losing influence on the middle game.
“And what next? When the games get even longer you learn endings?”
I’ve no idea. I never played out any of the long games over 60 moves.
I have basic end game knowledge. If I’m in an ending then something has gone
wrong. Games are won and lost in the middle game.
I am not going to influence your playing style. It’s up to you.
If you want to be an opening tricky/trappy type of player, so be it.
But the things you pick up from these books will do you no harm.
On the same site you will also find Chernev’s 1000 short games – phew!
I have played through About 25% of this book.
Some of the games are silly, good fun though.
I’ve read over everything. Nothing too controversial. My ending advice about only
needing basic knowledge is something I standby.
To improve and become a really good player excellent endgame knowledge is essential.
But first learn the fundamentals of opening play and the middle game. Without those
You will never see an ending.
Finally I strongly advise you print out these PGN’s (covert them to a different format
so they don’t show all that PGN junk) Print out maybe 5-6 pages at a time.
Play them out over a board. Things tend to stick in the mind doing it this way as
your eyes become use to roving over and reading a board.
Learning from a monitor may make you a reasonable computer player but when you
go on to a on full size set things will look different and your patterns recognition will
fail. Pattern recognition is a very important part of a chess player’s ability
Myself and others firmly believe that ‘monitor memory’ is no good
to an OTB player.
So why the upsurge in DVD’s if they are not helping?
DVD’s are easy to do, quicker to do (an afternoon) and cheaper than publishing
a book. (Though they charge just as much as a book. ).You figure it out.
So good luck mate. If any good player comes on after me and tells you I’m wrong
an...