Originally posted by Tonxthe answer is being careful and not dropping material, any material. the fast way to do that is to blunder check all your pieces on every single move. that'll get you to 1600's if you do it religiously.
I always get near 1400 and then drop away, can anyone tell me the difference between these levels?
Thanks in advance.
the 'slow', but more beneficial way, is to start doing tactics every day. that'll help you see things on the board not only faster, but also more accurately. the more you see, the less you miss, right? it's that simple. but training the tactical vision takes thousands tactical problems solved.
go to cts for tactical training:
http://chess.emrald.net/
Originally posted by TonxThe answer lies in not judging your ability to play chess by your rating.
I always get near 1400 and then drop away, can anyone tell me the difference between these levels?
Thanks in advance.
My advice is to play through several master games until you find someone that makes you feel like ... I wish I could think of a move like that ...
When you do ... you've found your style.
Study that player's games inside out: (s)he's a better you [at this game anyway]. Keep studying until it's natural for you to adopt a plan like them. Don't listen to these guys who tell you to play the board, that there is a plan for every position. Why is it that the guys that write these books are IMs not GMs?
I assure you that if you have a definitive stlyle of play that suits the way you think, regardless of your rating, you will be a worry for any opponent.
This will make a change in your play in six months: why not try it and call me a liar then?
Originally posted by TonxNo real difference and after all its just a number.
I always get near 1400 and then drop away, can anyone tell me the difference between these levels?
Thanks in advance.
Play lower rated opponents and win the games, your rating will increase to 1400+.
The problem with the ratings is that when your opponents rating (say 1400) drops to 1250 for some reason (timeouts, run of losses) and you subsequently lose to them, then rather than losing 5 or 6 points, you lose 20.
It only takes a couple of losses like that and suddenly your 1400 rating drops to 1350.
Ratings fall quicker than they rise, believe me I know lol
Your graph shows consistency, which is probably better than mine which is all over the place.
If you want the ratings rise then play a bunch of games against players rated 1200 and under. You should win these games and your rating will rise.
Another thing take a look at your performance tables, see who you beat quite often that are rated higher than you, send then over a few invites and take the wins!
The 1400+ will come eventually, just take your time and enjoy your chess.
Originally posted by TonxI was going to suggest http://chess.emrald.net/ also but i see Wormwood has beaten me to it. Try and do 20 minutes on this site a day. If you get the problem wrong, go back and do it slowly until you get it right. This site requires you to get the problems correct quickly in order to increase your rating. DON'T get put off by this! Even repeating simple puzzles is valuable, you'll find your board vision will improve quite quickly as a result. You could hit 1600 by the end of the year if you put your mind to it, it's perhaps not as difficult as it might seem... 😉
I always get near 1400 and then drop away, can anyone tell me the difference between these levels?
Thanks in advance.
Good luck 🙂
Originally posted by demonseedI agree with this. When i started out i used to play through the game that came with the Newspaper every day. I went from complete novice to 15-1600 in about 8-10 months. Get a good book on chess endings also. If you learn and understand some basic ending strategies you'll be much better for it. Studying endings is very important as you learn how to use the pieces in isolation. If you have a basic grasp of the sorts of positions you don't want to be in at the end, it will guide your thoughts much better at the beginning and the middle stages too... 😉
The answer lies in not judging your ability to play chess by your rating.
My advice is to play through several master games until you find someone that makes you feel like ... I wish I could think of a move like that ...
When you do ... you've found your style.
Study that player's games inside out: (s)he's a better you [at this game anyway]. Keep ...[text shortened]... This will make a change in your play in six months: why not try it and call me a liar then?
just don't drop pieces and study the middle game. studying master games at 1300 is hard. i tried it and gave up on it. now that i know a bit about it. on chessbase or something like that. the one where the board is green. has a million games and players on there. in each opening watch where the gm's put their pieces. those are usually where they should be developed for that opening. and also watch the pawn moves they make. the pawn breaks usually help make a basis for a plan.
Originally posted by kmac27I disagree totally here. Studying Master games is an excellent way to improve. You don't need to analyse them really in depth or anything, just play through them. It's amazing what watching good moves does to your game. By watching the Professionals you get a feel for concepts like initiative quite quickly. If you haven't seen many good games of chess, how can you expect to play good games?
just don't drop pieces and study the middle game. studying master games at 1300 is hard. i tried it and gave up on it. now that i know a bit about it. on chessbase or something like that. the one where the board is green. has a million games and players on there. in each opening watch where the gm's put their pieces. those are usually where they should be dev ...[text shortened]... and also watch the pawn moves they make. the pawn breaks usually help make a basis for a plan.
I'm convinced your rating is not an exact indication of your strength at the present. If you look at anybdy's rating, you'll see it fluctuates 100-200 points. When it goes straight up like a staircase into the stratosphere without any losses it MAY indicate engine use. It's only human to lose a few games once and a while, even by the best players. So, do not dismay when your rating goes down; it doesn't mean you're getting worse, it could reflect on the strength of opponent or an off day or something you et. Anything. Remember other players are also desperately trying to increase their strength. YOu have an unknown quantity on the other end trying as hard as they can to beat your brains out. Rating is not an exact measurement. If you play alot, study tactics, review openings, actually think about what made you lose your games, you'll always improve. No doubt about it. If we could only live long enough, we could all be masters (sigh).
Originally posted by Marinkatomban increment of 200 in 6 month isn't too big of an accomplishment, now if you meant 200 in a month, now that's a good effect.
I was going to suggest http://chess.emrald.net/ also but i see Wormwood has beaten me to it. Try and do 20 minutes on this site a day. If you get the problem wrong, go back and do it slowly until you get it right. This site requires you to get the problems correct quickly in order to increase your rating. DON'T get put off by this! Even repeating simple ...[text shortened]... you put your mind to it, it's perhaps not as difficult as it might seem... 😉
Good luck 🙂
Study tactics. CT-Art 3.0 is good fun (not cheap though!)
Use opening books or db's if you're uncertain of an opening.
Refine your thought process
e.g
Your opponent has just moved and your priority should be...
1) opponent's threats
*checks - have to be dealt with.
If you are in check, is it best to take the checking piece/pawn, block the check or move the king?
*captures - attacked pieces/pawns
*tactical threats (pins, skewers, forks)
2) what can your opponent do now that they couldn't before their last move?
*what plan do they have?
if you can decide what their plan is, can you stop it?
e.g are they planning to stick a knight on that defended d5 outpost & can you scupper it with a simple pawn move?
3) what threats do you have?
*is there a checkmate available?
*do you have a forced sequence of moves that creates a threat or wins material?
*checks are forcing moves - do you have any?
*can you create a new threat?
only make threats that make your position better if they can be met!
*any tactics available?
4) strategy
*put simply, how can you improve your position & put pieces on active squares or improve your pawn structure?
5) write a list of "candidate" moves
*go through possible moves, try to refine your list & remove blunders, weak or pointless moves.
*actually physically write them down. Writing/visualising aids in the learning process tremendously.
You should have some ideas from the pointers above.
6) 3 or 4 moves...
*usually you'll have a few moves that look good. You've checked them with the analyse game function & they aren't blunders & do counter a threat/make a threat/improve your position
*the big task is to not just pick a move but the best move
Thanks a lot everyone.
I think that avoiding "blunders" is important for getting into the 1300+, I am more careful than when I started on RHP. I am quite interested in taking the "iniative" more as this is a good way to defend yourself aswell. Sometimes when I look at Masters` games I can`t work out why they made moves or sacrifices, I`ll check the tactics website that was recommended.
Originally posted by TonxWhen I watch masters games I usually have it entered in a program like chessmaster. That way, when I see him make a move that has me scratching my head, i play out alternate variations to see what would happen if he didn't make that move. I discover interesting blunders that I at first didn't see.
Thanks a lot everyone.
I think that avoiding "blunders" is important for getting into the 1300+, I am more careful than when I started on RHP. I am quite interested in taking the "iniative" more as this is a good way to defend yourself aswell. Sometimes when I look at Masters` games I can`t work out why they made moves or sacrifices, I`ll check the tactics website that was recommended.
Originally posted by TonxSome comments based on your latest losses:
I always get near 1400 and then drop away, can anyone tell me the difference between these levels?
Thanks in advance.
Game 3719380
3...Qe7 and 4...Qb4+ - hoping for something like 5.c3 but you'll have to think beforehand what your opponent should play here (5.Nc3 and you'll lose e5-pawn). Game was not decided in the opening and it turned pretty wild. However, white got a huge initiative by this early queen manouvre.
Game 3672819
After 4.Bb5 black usually plays 4...exd4, 5...Bd7 and after that you can develop the kingside (Nf6, Be7). Last chance to save the piece would have been 6...a6 (perhaps something like 7.Ba4 b5 8.Nxb5 axb5 9.Bxb5 Bd7 10.dxc6 and white has two extra pawns).
After 11.h4 it is clear that white intends to castle on the queenside, you should start creating threats there (11...Rb8) or counterattack in the center (11...d5). Generally moving the same piece twice in the opening is a bad idea.
Game 3672822
3.Qh5 is a little early, if you really like to play this opening be my guest but this looks very much like hoping that your opponent would blunder - always expect him/her to make the best move (3...Nc6 or even 3...Nf6 are better than the text 3...Qf6)
14.Bd3 is losing time, you have a winning advantage and all you have to do is activate all your pieces to win. Perhaps a.) 14.Re1, 15.Ng3 and 16.Nf5 or crude b.) 14.f4 15.f5 16.f6 to create weakness on the kingside.
26.Qxd6 loses, always try to visualize all the possible checks that your opponent has, here you missed Bxf7+.
Game 3611799
You played well until move 25, again hoping for 25.Rxb7 Ra1 and you'd win the queen for R+B. However, white just wins a bishop with Qxb7. You still have chances with pawn fork 48...d3+.
Game 3629967
A tactical mistake (8...Qd6), removal of the guard with 9.Bxf6 and 10.Nxg4 loses a piece (you had to protect your bishop with 8...Bf5). 23..exf4 just loses another piece and it is time to resign.
Game 3622217
Again you play well but after castling you'd need to activate the rest of the pieces. Queenside rook belongs to b-file (11...Rb8), your knight would like to be on f4 (12...Nh5-Nf4) and then attack in the center with d5 or f5. Playing 11...c5 is not accomplishing anything. Strange game where you still have a won game at the move 48, just play 48...a5 49.Rxa5 Rxb6
In summary:
1. Avoid mistakes, try to see what your opponent might answer to your move. Many games are won and lost with pieces left completely en prise.
2. Get more experience of tactical motifs (CTS, books or lots of games)
3. Activate all your pieces: rooks to open files, knights like outposts and generally try to attack in the center.
4. Go through your losses and think about where you went wrong, not repeating the same mistake twice is the road to improvement.
Best regards,
- bahus