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gambits...

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can anyone tell me the best way to defend against gambits in chess openings..

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Accept them. If you need to, return the gambit pawn in exchange for development or other imbalances.

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i always accept gambits, the problem is i lose control of the center...and that's where i get killed most of the time...grrrr...

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Originally posted by nightwing05
i always accept gambits, the problem is i lose control of the center...and that's where i get killed most of the time...grrrr...
If so don't accept the gambit,simple as that!

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What's all this accepting the gambit and not accepting it? Does accepting the gambit mean to take the Kn pawn?

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Originally posted by Ravello
If so don't accept the gambit,simple as that!
right, simple as that..but good chess players should know how to deal with all possible scenarios..

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Originally posted by jimslyp69
What's all this accepting the gambit and not accepting it? Does accepting the gambit mean to take the Kn pawn?
Yes,in the case of the Queen's gambit after 1.d4,d5 2.c4 if you take the pawn with dxc4 you have accepted the gambit.

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Originally posted by nightwing05
i always accept gambits, the problem is i lose control of the center...and that's where i get killed most of the time...grrrr...
Don't hold on to the gambit pawn then and push your other center pawn (e -pawn in the QG) to take control of at least some part of the center.

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The best way to play a gambit seems to be to accept it and force the player to prove he can play a better game then you can. It does not matter how you play a gambit when your opponent is a much stronger player then you are.

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Learn the theory for specific gambit openings, and you should do better. If you play 1. d4, study the positions which result from accepting or declining the Volga Gambit, for example; then you can pick which line(s) suits your taste.

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Gambit3, I don't agree that accepting the gambit is generally the most testing reply. In the Evans Gambit, for example, 4. . . Ba6 forces white to prove that 4. b4 has positional value (because it probably doesn't). If gambit players tend to have a very aggressive style, looking for quick decisions in the center, then forcing them into a quieter manuevering game could be a cunning tactic. Of course, you had better be comfortable with games of this character. Conversely, Tal e.g. virtually never accepted gambits (playing 3. . . Nf6 against the Morra gambit e.g.); my guess is that his thirst for the initiative was so strong that he didn't want to lose any tempi. Also, Shirov used to play 5. b6 in the Volga gambit, with the same idea. If you like sharp, aggressive play, maybe declining or offering a counter-gambit would give you better chances.

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Always try to give up a Horsey for a Prawn in the opening. This is an excellent way to gain superior positional advantage. In fact, it's often better to give up the Horsey for no material at all.

For example:
http://www.redhotpawn.com/core/playchess.php?gameid=1040209

Note White's totally lost-looking, confused Horseys.

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Bowmann, are you serious?
"Wait, I can double his f-pawns if I hang my knight . . . " Good thinking. . . Psych. . . In blitz games, maybe surprise wins a few seconds. . .

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Bowmann, I just checked out that game, and personally I would be very happy to play white. Most of my wins against computer opponents come from positions like that. . . Regardless of who actually wins the game, it's an endgame, and there's still the pawn for knight exchange, nothing more than that. . .

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Originally posted by KAMachiavelli
Bowmann, are you serious?
"Wait, I can double his f-pawns if I hang my knight . . . " Good thinking. . . Psych. . . In blitz games, maybe surprise wins a few seconds. . .
No! You should never do that if you can avoid it. Doubled-Prawns are very strong, especially if you find that your Queen's missing. Certainly, allow your opponent to double yours at every opportunity.