This kind of positions happens in OTB very often. Nothing extravagant, just routine opening, placing your pieces on adequat squares and then... WHAT ?
I don't want you to tell me the book continuation but rather what plans and ideas should one consider in dull symmetric positions like this ;
What do you search for here ? What should be your plan ? I hope my post and example doesn't feel too general. I am simply interested how to start middlegame with clear ideas when you play calm equilibred opening like this... Especially as black, with one move less. What to look for ?
What does an 2000 plan here compared to an 1300 ?
Yes, you can put your rook on the c-file and then open it, you will of course develop your bishops, maybe make some prophylactic move with a and h pawns but your opponent can do the same.
How to get an edge here ?!
The first thing you have to consider is how the central pawn tension will be resolved; this will indicate where the pieces will best be developed.
So, if white plays cxd5 and black recaptures exd5, then we can see that if white plays dxc5 at some point black is left with an isolated d-pawn. (Isolated Queen's Pawn=IQP)
This structure will form the basis of the opposing plans. White will look to blockade the pawn using the d4-square, undermine the defenders of it and ultimately aim to win the pawn (and probably the game if black doesn't try to oppose this plan).
If black accepts this IQP, he must look for active ways to distract white from the plan outlined above. Developing quickly and actively with a view to attacking the white kingside- so moves such as Bd6/Bg4/Re8 and Ne4 will be part of his development plan.
As the position you give is symmetrical, it's possible for white to be left with the IQP (if black plays cxd4 and white replies exd4) and the plans above are obviously reversed.
In general, accepting an IQP is appealing to attacking players; playing against the IQP suits those who don't mind soaking up a bit of pressure as long as they have a structural advantage.
As with most openings, you don't want to waste moves, so you need to know these structures, the strategies which need to be employed to play them well and where the pieces belong within them.
Hope this helps : )
Originally posted by ivan2908How do you get an edge? You might consider that in some cases it's best to find the best squares for your pieces, connect your rooks, castle your king, and wait for your opponent to commit to a line of play. In this way, you can begin looking for a weakness to exploit. Sometimes counterattacking chances can present themselves this way, and be more effective than commiting yourself first.
This kind of positions happens in OTB very often. Nothing extravagant, just routine opening, placing your pieces on adequat squares and then... WHAT ?
I don't want you to tell me the book continuation but rather what plans and ideas should one consider in dull symmetric positions like this ;
[fen]r1bqkb1r/pp3ppp/2n1pn2/2pp4/2PP4/2N1PN2/PP3PPP/R1BQKB1 ...[text shortened]... ctic move with a and h pawns but your opponent can do the same.
How to get an edge here ?!
Originally posted by ivan2908I don't think the original post specifies whether it is White or Black to move. That might make considerable difference.
This kind of positions happens in OTB very often. Nothing extravagant, just routine opening, placing your pieces on adequat squares and then... WHAT ?
I don't want you to tell me the book continuation but rather what plans and ideas should one consider in dull symmetric positions like this ;
[fen]r1bqkb1r/pp3ppp/2n1pn2/2pp4/2PP4/2N1PN2/PP3PPP/R1BQKB1 ...[text shortened]... ctic move with a and h pawns but your opponent can do the same.
How to get an edge here ?!
What is the move order as well? If you don't like the position it is easy to provide alternatives. You can isolate blacks d pawn or simply trade the c pawn for the e pawn. The idea of the opening for white is to get developed and make a pawn break on the queen side basically. Look at some of kasparovs games, that is what has helped me to improve my d4 play. He is a very good teacher from looking at his games.
Originally posted by ivan2908
This kind of positions happens in OTB very often. Nothing extravagant, just routine opening, placing your pieces on adequat squares and then... WHAT ?
I don't want you to tell me the book continuation but rather what plans and ideas should one consider in dull symmetric positions like this ;
[fen]r1bqkb1r/pp3ppp/2n1pn2/2pp4/2PP4/2N1PN2/PP3PPP/R1BQKB1 ...[text shortened]... ctic move with a and h pawns but your opponent can do the same.
How to get an edge here ?!
i would consider, in true Bangiev style (peace be upon him) a plan from whites perspective based on attacking the d5 area, or in other words occupying or attacking the squares d5, e6 and f7, for as the position stands at present, the f7 square is still quite weak, being defended only by the king, thus we want to put to the question those pieces which occupy or defend the aforementioned squares, that being the pawns on d5, e6 and f7, the knight of f6, the bishop on c7. therefore we should consider moves such as cxd5, then perhaps, Bd3, pawn to e4, dark squared bishop to g5 etc etc.
probably no one will agree and obviously flaws and variations need to be checked, but it illustrates the point of having a concerted effort against specific squares and weaknesses and the development of at least some type of strategy, for is a bad plan better than none at all, i dunno, probably not?
Originally posted by Diet CokeI know that you're a big fan of the english, but if you do that here, you're committing to having very weak light squares and black will probably give you an IQP and blockade it while you're wasting time with g3.
Play Nf3 g3 Bg2 0-0 ftw
Anytime I look at something like this I see IQP and I try and assess two things.
1. Who will have it?
2...
If I will, where do my pieces go to attack and can I gain some space by pushing it (typically IQP on 4/5 rank is harmless, but advance it a few squares and it can be deadly both as a passed pawn, supporting minor pieces and cramping your opponent).
If my opponent will, how do I place my pieces to blockade it (typically you blockade the pawn first then try and win it). Assuming black has IQP on d5 I usually look for Nd4, Nb-d2-f3, Be3, etc. Since my opponent will also likely get to attack I look to prevent moves like Bf5 which are not normally possible in a Q-pawn game due to e6.
In his excellent book New Ideas in Chess, GM Larry Evans identified four elementary elements to any position:
Force: Who has more stuff? Usually the player who is ahead in material is better, and usually winning.
Space: Which army controls the most terrain?
Time: Who can mobilize their forces the quickest to mount an attack?
Pawn Structure: Who has pawns that are easy targets or who has a fractured pawn structure in front of their castled King?
Basically, every move you make in a chess game should improve your position with respect to at least one of the above elements.
When all else fails, try to figure out what piece of yours is on the worst square, and find a more suitable place for it.
I should point out that the first thing one should do after their opponent moves is to ask, "What's the threat?"
In one of his opening books (like that narrows it down), GM Andrew Soltis said that chess becomes simpler when the following two questions are asked right after your opponent moves:
1. What does his or her last move prevent me from doing?, and
2. What does his or her last move allow me to do?
Just a few thoughts from the Peanut Gallery. 🙂