Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
Advice gratefully received, though perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
Originally posted by tjmartiEven if you have to attach the component to pads the principles dont change, heat pad and component leg until hot enough to melt the solder, feed solder until it spreads evenly across the component and pad, remove solder iron and inspect your fine soldering....
Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
...[text shortened]... h perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
Originally posted by tjmartiThrough hole vs. surface-mount PC boards.... If you need to attach a wire to a node without a through-hole, you are generally best to lay the (insulation stripped) end of the wire flat relative to the PC board and attach it to a pad--for instance pushing it into the solder of a surface-mount resistor. Alternatively you might attach it to the lead of a surface-mount IC (carefully avoiding shorting to other leads).
Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
...[text shortened]... h perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
Not so good is attaching to an unused pad, because there's the risk of peeling the pad off the board--there's not a tremendous amount of strength (adhesion) between the pad and PC board, especially when hot.
Use the finest, most flexible wire you can get away with, as that will reduced the tendency to put force onto the pad when you bend the wire later, or push it into position to attach the other end... ...or whatever it is you've got planned.
EDIT: Try to avoid soldering on surface-mount ceramic capacitors as they have a tendency to crack and create latent failures--and it's not always obvious when this has happened, even under inspection with a microscope. Failure mode is typically shorting out, months after the crack occurs, due to metal migration.
Originally posted by cadwahMelted solder on iron tip will heat quicker than not having any solder already on the heated iron... that way nothing gets melted.
Even if you have to attach the component to pads the principles dont change, heat pad and component leg until hot enough to melt the solder, feed solder until it spreads evenly across the component and pad, remove solder iron and inspect your fine soldering....
Attach wire.
Do NOT use a Solder Pot.
P-
Originally posted by tjmartiI occasionally solder at work; here's my 2c.
Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
...[text shortened]... h perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
1) Tape the jumper wire to the PCB and route it so it lays flat on the pad. In the industry, we use Kapton tape to avoid static discharge problems, but this may be hard to find commercially.
2) Use flux. Put a drop or two and cover the pad and wire end. It helps the solder flow better.
3) Clean the iron. The tip should look silvery, free from impurities. Melt solder into the tip to loosen the debris on the tip, then wipe it off on a wet soldering sponge.
4) Use enough heat. Depending on how thick your PCB is, you may need 600 degrees F or more to heat the pad hot enough to melt solder.
5) Place the iron so that it touches both the jumper wire and pad. Flow the solder into the pad. If you use proper flux, heat, and a clean tip, you should not need to touch the solder to the iron. It should melt onto the pad directly. The whole process should only take 1-2 seconds. Do not hold the tip on the pad any longer than that. The pad may 'lift' if too much heat is applied.
Final note: No, you do not make your own holes in the PCB. 🙂
Originally posted by tjmartiDuct tape
Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
...[text shortened]... h perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
Originally posted by SwissGambitwhat he said
I occasionally solder at work; here's my 2c.
1) Tape the jumper wire to the PCB and route it so it lays flat on the pad. In the industry, we use Kapton tape to avoid static discharge problems, but this may be hard to find commercially.
2) Use flux. Put a drop or two and cover the pad and wire end. It helps the solder flow better.
3) Clean the iron. ...[text shortened]... if too much heat is applied.
Final note: No, you do not make your own holes in the PCB. 🙂
Originally posted by tjmartiSo, have you bought a new cooker hood yet, or have you told the Mrs. that it is a work in progress?
Is there anybody there with soldering experience? I have a PCB for my cooker extractor fan and have some questions! Examples of soldering on the web seem to show PCBs with holes that you stick the wire through, then solder. My PCB doesnt have holes but 'pads' and I have failed to get the wire to attach. Surely I dont have to make the holes, or do I...?
...[text shortened]... h perhaps not the most interesting thread
Less time i spend soldering, more time for chess.
Edit: Or worse still, have you enjoyed the feeling of flowing electricity because you forgot to remove the fuse from the isolation socket.
Originally posted by SwissGambitThe only thing I would add is to use the smallest wattage soldering iron for the job, 20 or 30 watts should be more than enough, you can get those at Radio Shack. You just touch the iron to the pad and wire long enough to get a nice silvery flow then take away the iron and count to five, one chimpansee, two chimpansee, etc., before you move the wire or PCB.
I occasionally solder at work; here's my 2c.
1) Tape the jumper wire to the PCB and route it so it lays flat on the pad. In the industry, we use Kapton tape to avoid static discharge problems, but this may be hard to find commercially.
2) Use flux. Put a drop or two and cover the pad and wire end. It helps the solder flow better.
3) Clean the iron. ...[text shortened]... if too much heat is applied.
Final note: No, you do not make your own holes in the PCB. 🙂
If you have an old PCB board hanging around, you could practice on that before you start on the real job, just to get the feel of it.