Originally posted by AudreyxSophie
I did not told any one, but I am playing on a lcub and as helper on the club d'échecs junior de sherbrooke. Hoverer, not many and myself maybe, really understand the position aspect of chess.
How can I describe it to them.. I am a little poor.. I try to give exemple from 1...f4 f5 openings. BUt, they are not famous,
So, how do you view the positionnal play.
Somethings most of the youngs of the upper class do not get.
I don't know if this is helpful or what you were looking for, but I liked this - quoted from http://www.chessville.com/instruction/instr_novice_introstrategy_intro.htm
Positional concept 1: A lead in development. This relates to time since a lead in development will eventually dissipate with time. The opening phase of the game is concerned with development and an opening where you don’t end up developing your pieces properly will usually lead to an attack by your opponent.
Positional concept 2: Superior mobility. Your pieces have free movement and good squares where they can be effectively posted. The bad bishop is the most notorious example of a piece without good squares because of the limitations placed on it by its own pawns.
Positional concept 3: Occupation and control of the center. This is one of the oldest principles of chess and has been subject to a number of interpretations over the years. Because all of your pieces are more effective if they are in the center of the board, controlling the center usually means that you will have control of the game. Resolving the tension in the center is a precondition for an attack.
Positional concept 4: Unsafe king position. If your king is liable to attack, you have a significant positional problem. Steinitz always considered the King to be a strong piece. It is also a juicy target, so beware!
Positional concept 5: Weak squares. Weak squares can be defined as squares where your opponent can safely post his pieces. Weak squares provide an entry point into your territory and are often the precursor to an attack. Naturally, if you can exploit the weak squares of your opponent, then they will work for you.
Positional concept 6: United pawns and isolated pawns. Pawn structure is a key to understanding positional chess because the characteristics of pawn structures determine the nature of the entire game. Connected pawns support one another and control squares. Isolated pawns are unsupported and are subjected to being blockaded by enemy pieces. The actual impact of an isolated pawn depends on the formation in question.
Other positional concepts include the Q-side majority, open files, preponderance of material and the conversion of small advantages into a winning position. As far better writers than your author have addressed these in detail, we will now return to the creation of a personal chess playing style as a way to improve your chess strength.
Positional concept 7: The Queen side Majority. The queenside pawn majority often plays an important role positional because the side that possesses it going into the end game can force a passed pawn on the far side of the board. This can be enough to win a lot of king and pawn endings, assuming you know how to play king and pawn endings, which are among the most difficult ending in all of chess.
Positional concept 8: Open files. Open files are vertical lines designed for use by the rook. An open file has no pawns blocking it. Open files are often crucial during the middle game and many games have been decided by which side controls them.
Positional concept 9: The two bishops. This particular concept is severely overrated but the Classical school fell in love with them early on, so it has become part of the positional lore. Modern authors stress that the advantage or disadvantage of the two bishops depends on the position. Personally, my opinion is that the only thing a bishop is good for is killing knights. This may seem a bit extreme but I have an itsy bitsy problem seeing knight moves…
Positional concept 10: Preponderance of material. If I have more material than you do, and I don’t blunder into a mate or a draw, I should win, assuming I have decent “technique”. We will save a discussion of technique for a later article, since it is beyond the scope of this one.